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10179 - UCS: Millennium Falcon


Ed Mack

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15 hours ago, citymorgue said:

I'm pretty sure I remember a conversation some time back about this kind of problem.  As far as I believe, if every piece is true to the original down to color, and variation, I don't see how you can it's not genuine?  Hell, the only thing that's missing is the box and the other stuff.  But it would still technically be an original.  A lego piece is a lego piece.  It doesn't matter where the piece came from.

If I have a set that I lost a couple of pieces and replaced them with the exact same thing from another set, does it not become original anymore???

The only thing that would matter to me, are the pieces truly original.  Now, the antennas aren't original to the set, and that will set you back a bit of money for sure.  With this set, the antennas, the unique printed dish, and boat pieces in the back are the biggest things to look for.  Those alone will set you back easily $400+.  If those aren't there, I would probably pass.

I'm with you, 100% complete with exact original piece constitutes an authentic set whether you came up with the parts or Lego did it in their factory.  When I bricklink a set, it is with 100% accurate parts, even if they are a retired part.  It's no different than selling a set out of a bulk lot you pieced back together.  If you have the parts, you have a "set".

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On 4/28/2016 at 6:36 AM, Huskers1236 said:

I'm with you, 100% complete with exact original piece constitutes an authentic set whether you came up with the parts or Lego did it in their factory.  When I bricklink a set, it is with 100% accurate parts, even if they are a retired part.  It's no different than selling a set out of a bulk lot you pieced back together.  If you have the parts, you have a "set".

Agree as well. Esp. with a set like this, unless its in a sealed box you are almost guaranteed to be missing or have a few items damaged. As long as the pieces are 100%, the set is as well.

I think the argument for quality is another thing. I have seen dk reddish brown pieces that are so faded they are no longer true to color despite being the correct serial part number, or black pieces that are so scratched they no longer appear black. That is another discussion entirely.

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I need some help. Somebody i know has been offered a use 10179. after viewing photos, i think its a bricklinked copy but trying to pass it off as original. Was the Dish piece printed or did it have a sticker? Also, the small antennas at the back are grey and black, aren't these suppose to be all grey?

There is no difference between a brick linked set and an "original". Substituted pieces are a different story.

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1 minute ago, gmpirate said:

There is no difference between a brick linked set and an "original". Substituted pieces are a different story.

there were MANY substituted pieces. The yellow 5x5s were black. The light grey antennas were black and grey. The dish had no printing. The Bley Mast was light grey. The sticker sheet was not what you would call great but was close. Thanks to you guys here, my mate managed to get it down from 1600 to near £900. 

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1 minute ago, Bold-Arrow said:

What's the difference ? Not all used sets come with a manual or a box 

As a buyer.  I want to know if the set has been bricklinked or if it is an original.  To me, regardless if the pieces are the same, a bricklinked set doesn't hold the same value.

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3 minutes ago, lego rules said:

As a buyer.  I want to know if the set has been bricklinked or if it is an original.  To me, regardless if the pieces are the same, a bricklinked set doesn't hold the same value.

If I brick link all the pieces, put them in a zip lock bag and say "original, no box or manual", how would you know it is brick linked? 

If I have the original set but lost the box and manual, put it in a zip lock bag and say "original, no box or manual ", how would you know it is original?

Point is: once you have to rely on the honesty of the seller, there is no way to distinguish, so in effect both are the same.

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Just now, Phil B said:

If I brick link all the pieces, put them in a zip lock bag and say "original, no box or manual", how would you know it is brick linked? 

If I have the original set but lost the box and manual, put it in a zip lock bag and say "original, no box or manual ", how would you know it is original?

Point is: once you have to rely on the honesty of the seller, there is no way to distinguish, so in effect both are the same.

I use the force and file a snad.

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34 minutes ago, lego rules said:

As a buyer.  I want to know if the set has been bricklinked or if it is an original.  To me, regardless if the pieces are the same, a bricklinked set doesn't hold the same value.

the "original - no box " vs. "bricklinked elements - no box" used set priced values should be the same as long as the stickers are real and the manual is included.  granted, there could be slight differences that impact price like manual condition, stickers applied or not, condition of bricks with print like the radar dish, etc...

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I like to display my items so if something has been brick linked (which I have bought before) there are clues to find out if it is an original or not.  I personally don't care enough but I know some collectors do.

The easiest way to tell if a set has been brick linked is to look for different shades of color.  Pieces from different batches when they are made can have slightly different shades.  It is not full proof because original sets will also have this issue.

The other method which I have heard of but have never looked into it, is identification by mold number / date stamps.  A typical set will have most identical pieces of the same color produced by the same mold and similar time.

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9 minutes ago, lego rules said:

I like to display my items so if something has been brick linked (which I have bought before) there are clues to find out if it is an original or not.  I personally don't care enough but I know some collectors do.

The easiest way to tell if a set has been brick linked is to look for different shades of color.  Pieces from different batches when they are made can have slightly different shades.  It is not full proof because original sets will also have this issue.

The other method which I have heard of but have never looked into it, is identification by mold number / date stamps.  A typical set will have most identical pieces of the same color produced by the same mold and similar time.

You already nullified the "different shades of color" test in your second paragraph :)

For the mold number / date stamp thing - what if I bought the set used myself, don't have the knowledge, eyesight and time to check 5k pieces for mold numbers and want to sell the set? For all I know - the set is original. Again, you as a buyer will have to rely on the honesty and due dilligence of all the sellers in the reselling chain. Ergo, another reason why bricklinked with original pieces and original from set are indistinguishable and hence the same.

If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it is a duck.

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5 minutes ago, Phil B said:

If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it is a duck.

Then what's the harm in saying it was bricklinked? If you bricklinked a set, what reason would you have for not mentioning it was bricklinked?

The reality is that people aren't bricklinking the balloon cart poly (no offense Poly :)) and putting it on eBay. They're bricklinking the big and expensive sets... and with that comes the risk of wrong parts, fake stickers, etc.

If you all truly believe its worth the same, then you should put BRICKLINKED in your title and see if it matters. :devil:

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4 minutes ago, gregpj said:

Then what's the harm in saying it was bricklinked? If you bricklinked a set, what reason would you have for not mentioning it was bricklinked?

The reality is that people aren't bricklinking the balloon cart poly (no offense Poly :)) and putting it on eBay. They're bricklinking the big and expensive sets... and with that comes the risk of wrong parts, fake stickers, etc.

If you all truly believe its worth the same, then you should put BRICKLINKED in your title and see if it matters. :devil:

Bricklinked is not an official reseeling term I don't see why anyone need to use it if everything is a 100% match. If I buy a lot from CL ,  use those pieces along with some from my collections and others from Bricklink what while I list it as ? A hybrid ? 

Again unless I'm gonna make more money selling a friends set that has a 2x1 from a 10179 I don't see why the reverse is an issue .

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