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This month (November 2016) marks my first complete year as a LEGO reseller and active BrickPicker, as well as the second anniversary of coming out of my Dark Ages. Okay, I was reading catalogs and buying a few cool sets for my kids every year before 2014, but nothing like the full-on assault of having to catch up with all that LEGO has offered in the past. To celebrate these milestones I thought it would be a nice idea to contribute some of my key lessons from the past year back to this community. First of all, a little background. What really got me out of my Dark Ages was LEGO Trains, actually, it was a Fleischmann N-scale model train set that I used to have when I was a kid and which my dad brought over from Europe to the US 2 years ago. Enthusiasm over introducing my son and daughter to model railroading quickly turned into disillusion because I realized that none of the US manufacturers made tracks compatible with my N-scale track, and that just buying extra rolling stock was going to set me back hundreds of dollars for single-purpose items, which break irreparably when played with by (young) kids. Then a little light-bulb went off in my head: What if I bought LEGO trains instead – we could build our own trains, cars etc., and whenever we wanted something different, we just take it all apart. So with my wife’s blessing, Santa brought the Blue Cargo Train set (60057) and two Horizon Express sets for Christmas 2014. Unbeknownst to her, I had also managed to get an (already retired) Maersk Train, a few My Own Train carriages and some other random train-related bulk lots. I participated in a RailBricks contest (the last one they did before unfortunately shuttering the magazine) and started my decent into the delightful madness that is the world of AFOLs. Since I’m a train guy, you won’t hear stories from me about having to have this or that Star Wars ship, or those exclusive SuperHeroes minifigs. Sure, my son has a Millenium Falcon and Poe’s X-Wing, and the key SW characters as buildables, but our LEGO buying was first focused on Chima (my son loved it), then shifted to Bionicle, and now my kids’ playing revolves around Harry Potter – we don’t own any of the sets, but have a few minifigures and a lot of imagination. My daughter has a lot of Friends sets which she loves, but is slowly growing out of her interest for these (my kids are 10 year old twins at the time of this writing). Then November 2015 hit, and I started investigating the value of some sets, and joined the BrickPicker forums. My first purchases started rolling in ….. Pirate Chess Sets from LEGO Shop-at-Home, and a few handfuls of 10697 Brick Boxes from WalMart. As I really love the brick, I had determined I was going to start my own BrickLink store (having designed several train cars and placing tens of BL orders I had gotten familiar with how this worked). And I read and read and read on BrickPicker, and participated in the discussions, and grew wiser and smarter and, I must say, warier as time went by. Here are the key lessons I’ve learned from my first year: The buying part is easy. The buying part is fun. Great adrenaline rush. But for many of us, there’s too much to buy. Just because it’s 50% off doesn’t mean you NEED to buy it. Case in point: I picked up a 31033 Vehicle Transport at Target in January 2016 for $10 (RRP: $25, so 60% off). Not a particularly nice set, it had just been released, available everywhere, and who will buy from you as a beginning Ebay seller? Needless to say, this set still sits unsold on my shelf. It’s all about buy-in. Where previous strategies mainly revolved around getting your hands on as many of the expensive sets as possible before they quickly but inevitably retired without much fanfare, the LEGO reselling game is undergoing a massive change. Buy-in price seems to be the key factor now. As a beginning buyer I was excited when I saw 20% off. A year later, 40-50% is where my heartbeat starts increasing. Selling takes time. It’s not difficult, it just takes time. Time to establish yourself as a trustworthy seller. Time to wait for prices to rise to a level you’re comfortable with. Unless you stumbled upon something truly desirable and unavailable, or if you are able to price significantly below others, don’t count on things selling within the first 30-day listing period. Darth Revans, Iron Patriots and Silver Centurions are obvious exceptions, but those don’t come by often. For other items it is a slow, slow game – listing and relisting. The game changes continuously. What works one month might no longer work the next month. Every Bob and Sally has LEGO items in their Ebay store. More and more people join and try to eke out an ever smaller amount of profit. Amazon throws up a gate. Ebay and Target stop a lucrative giftcard cycle. You need to stay in touch or your investments become much harder to sell, or your profit evaporates. Making a decent profit is not easy. At least, not for big(ger) sets. Just look at Ebay: You bought a set for $100 and want to make good profit. If you sell for $150 (shipping included), you will pay ~$18 to Ebay/Paypal in fees, and ~$10-$20 in shipping (in the US, depending on where you live). That’s $30-$40 off of your selling price, so you end up making $10-$20. A small profit is also profit, but you’ve spent time on this set, buying it, storing it, packing it, listing it, checking comparables etc. Unless you’re shifting hundreds of these sets a month, this will not be worth your while. Your time is valuable. Even if you consider this “only a hobby”, before you know you’re in your car driving from one Target to another. I have 6 or 7 Targets in a 15 mile radius from my house, and a similar amount of Walmarts. Popping into one is a quick affair. But when those clearance rumors swirly, and stock checkers are unreliable, your “quick check what they have” becomes a 3hrs+ road-trip. Plus, with 800+ LEGO sets on the market, you’re quickly spending 20-30 mins per store checking resale values, BL part-out costs etc. Then you need to list. Take a picture or two. Research what others are listing for. Do your administration (which for a detailed oriented person like me means adding a row for each set in a 30+ column spreadsheet tracking all sorts of aspects of your purchases). And for those of us who do the part-out route, there’s time in sorting out the set contents, setting up an organizational system, updating BL inventories etc. Choose your game plan. There is too much going on (what with LEGO producing 800+ sets a year as mentioned before) to play all fields. Unless you’re sitting on vast amounts of spare capital, you cannot AND go deep on expensive sets, and cover all themes (Modulars, SW UCS, GBHQ, SHIELD Helicarrier, Advanced Technic models etc) and part out, and BrickLink …. Pick one strategy that best fits your lifestyle. Your options are: Good old-fashioned investing – buy expensive sets for true investment purposes, i.e. stash them away for 3-5 years post retirement and see if that magical 3xMSRP has appeared. Clearance hunting for quick flip – grab those 50-75% off sets, and list them within a year to see if you can get >MSRP to get 75-100% ROI. Diamonds in the rough – take a punt on a few sets that you believe are “iconic” and not soon remade. Remember: First rule of fight club is that nobody talks about fight club. Sit back and watch others scramble over the “common” sets, and rake in the profits when the sets are retired and people realize they “need” them. Or at least, that’s the theory. Buy for part-out. Split your sets into minifigs, buildings and vehicles, and sell them separately for more than the original sets’ cost. I’ve had some luck with this strategy, though it was never my game plan – especially with Dimensions (minifigure and video-game discs sold separately, with the minibuilds as parts for my BL store inventory). Buy for parts. Look at which sets have good BL value, but be careful: unique/niche parts can drive up the value but see very little sales. Be selective. Don’t be a sheep. Tied to the previous point. It is so easy to get carried away. “Great deal on this SW UCS – now 30% off!”. Sure, but if you have a budget (and I recommend you have one from the get-go), plonking down a few hundred bucks on a set that you’ll likely have on a shelf for the next 2-3 years might not be the wisest decision. Plus, there are many others who jump in on this, so you need to battle your competitors in a game that is not your strength. Net, stick to your own plan. Document. Document. Document. Keep track of what you spend and how much you earn. A spreadsheet is good enough. Don’t count on profit until you have it in your PayPal account. Account for all expenses – boxes, shelving, tape, you name it. Find the right marketplace. Depending on your location, you have multiple options. Each marketplace has its plusses and minusses. The key ones are: Ebay. First choice for many. Used by bargain hunters, savvy shoppers and has generally a good, sizeable audience. To really have a good experience, you need to be honest in listing (duh), take lots of pictures, price right, ship fast, and have a return policy (and ideally, a generous one). Also, you need to use PayPal, and unless you work yourself up to Top Rated Seller, count on 12% of your total sale price (including shipping!) to be taken as fees. Amazon. Until very recently the absolute best place to start selling. Everybody shops at Amazon. Unfortunately, unless you pay $1k and provide proof of purchase (and potentially a letter from TLG proving you are an authorized reseller), you cannot list LEGO anymore. I was lucky to get grandfathered in based on a few sales I had in the spring and summer. FBA (Fulfilled by Amazon) is the best one of the lot – limited effort (buy, add to inventory, pack and ship to Amazon – they take care of the rest) and a lot of eyeballs. This comes at a price: up to 20% of the sale price goes to uncle Jeff, but the “Prime” label makes up for that by commanding a premium price from buyers, and people happily click away. Plus, you get a chance to be featured in the Buy Box. Just be aware of returns – you might have to swallow the occasional destroyed item. Craigslist. Flea-market audience. Has the hassle of having to meet with people (and finding a place where to do this can sometimes take a lot of back-and-forth with your buyer), but once the sale is made you have no risk and no obligations. Also: no fees. BrickLink (and BrickOwl, its key competitor). AFOLs only. Limited eyes, but limited fees (1-2%). Your buyers know what they want. Shipping is extra, so no need to accounting for shipping costs in calculating your price. The only downside is that setting up shop properly is not easy – adding shipment methods, figuring out how to price those methods correctly etc. all needs some research. Of course you can do without, but you get more sales if you do it right. Facebook selling groups. No real experience here on my end. I’m part of my local Buying/Selling group, but what I see is not instilling much confidence: used cars, pitbull pups and phones. I doubt anyone will want to buy a LEGO set at a reseller premium there. Others have reported more success. There are other apps and marketplaces: Offerup, Kijiji in Canada, Gumtree in the UK, Marktplaats in the Netherlands and Belgium …. I have no experience with these but from what I’ve heard, they fit in with Craigslist/Facebook above. Conventions, flea-markets, garage sales. Very interesting venues, each with their own dynamic. You could get away with charging a premium at conventions (and potentially at flea-markets), but often your participation comes with a fee, so you need to account for that. Again, not an area I have dabbled in so far. Read up on key threads. Check what happened to 41999 to understand how the horde can get carried away sometimes. Read the Amazon/Ebay/CL threads for tips on how to get started, and for answers to commonly experienced questions. Check out the Ethics forum to understand what is being frowned upon – if we don’t keep certain practices and standards, retailers will counteract and remove things like the ability to stack coupons, or the acceptance of printed coupons, or even the privilege of a hassle-free return. And before you make your first purchase, check the speculative bubble thread – if you are still convinced you want to do this after reading that thread, you’re probably strong enough to handle what’s coming (or rozy-eyed enough to not care). Master the art of stacking. There are published deals (50% off at Target!) and there are “make your own deals”. The latter have the benefit that they are YMMV (your mileage may vary) – others likely won’t be able to replicate them. Several retailers (Toys’r’us, Kmart/Sears, Meijer, BAM, Ebay, Galeria-kaufhof and mytoys in Germany to name a few) have coupon and discount policies that allow for the stacking of offers. Combine sale pricing with credit card discounts, with reduced-price Gift Cards, with 20% off coupons, with Buy-one-get-one-free (BOGOF) offers, with points/rewards program certificates, until your buy-in price approaches $0. Then rub it in other’s faces on the "What LEGO set did you buy today" thread. Get in on those loyalty programs. For the price of a small piece of your soul, join as many rewards programs as you can. Ebay Bucks, TRU Rewards, Shop-Your-Way, Meijer mPerks, BAM club membership, Barnes & Noble membership, you name it. Carry the card. And if you don’t mind carrying multiple credit cards, use store-specific CC’s for your purchases, and earn discounts and cashback. Just pay them off every month, please. Be truthful in accounting. This goes two ways: Don’t get into trouble with the IRS. If you sell for profit, you are generating income. Better report it (plus in the US you can deduct the expenses incurred in making the sale, such as car mileage, shipping materials, storage materials etc.). Officially you should also register yourself as a reseller in your state/county (unless you block people in your state from buying from you). For my state (Ohio) this was really not a big deal – a small fee, some paperwork, and a twice-a-year reporting duty (so far always $0). Also, configure your selling accounts (Ebay, BrickLink) to automatically charge sales tax on purchases made by local buyers. You can only do this on Amazon if you have a professional selling account – when you sell as an individual you’ll just have to pay the sales tax out of the sales price. As a benefit: I get to buy tax-free in the few places that haven’t banned resellers (Amazon, Walmart) as long as it is for store inventory. Think about how you account for points, freebies etc. There are many ways to skin the cat, but I prefer this approach: Points never count as a discount on the purchase made to earn them, only as a discount on the purchase where they are used. Freebies count as a $0 purchase, and everything I earn on them is (gross) profit. So, those sets I bought at LEGO S@H for $75 to get the free Gingerbread House really cost me $75, even though I sold the GBH for $50 and made $40 profit after fees and shipping, and got 150 points as part of double VIP. Get approval from your S.O. (Significant Other). Some of us are blessed with AFOL partners. Some of us have bargaining partners – if you want to do this, then let me do my thing. Some of us have eye-rolling partners. And even some of us have to pretend and work undercover. Oh, and some don’t have partners, but I’m giving them a break and will not tap into my arsenal of AFOL bachelor puns. At least come to some sort of an arrangement. LEGO should never be the reason a relationship ends, and should never be more important than your S.O. I had big plans (and still have big plans) regarding my BL shop as well as regarding my LEGO Train building hobby. They’ve been slowed down – my wife protested against the amount of time I was spending on this and she was right. <Insert doormat pun here> Practice self-constraint. No you don’t have to buy it all. Often I go all the way through the checkout process and then take a breather. A quick comparison with other sites. Read some reviews. Think "yes it is x% off, but you still pay $y". And after amassing a closet full of LEGO: “First sell enough until you have more funds and more space, then buy again”. What also helps me is that I have a (very short) list of sets I really want to have for my personal collection. If there ever is a good deal on those, I’ll jump on it (ideally using Ebay Bucks or Credit Card reward dollars). For the other deals: there will be more deals in the future. Be helpful and you’ll be better off for it. Just like you need to build up a reputation of trustworthyness on Ebay or Amazon, I advise everyone to do the same on BrickPicker. Look out for your fellow BP-ers. Help them score a deal when needed. Post those deals when you see them (even if they don’t interest you), or at least, post them after you had your fill. Because all the goodwill you’re building up will help you get better deals yourself – via member-to-member private messages, or just by being "in-tune" with what is happening on the marketplace. And unlike many other platforms on the vast World Wide Web, Brickpicker is a very civilized, high-intelligence online forum. Conversations are kind, well articulated and insightful. Moderators intervene at the right time, and with clear principles. And everyone likes a giggle. Unless you are a professional reseller (and I know there are several that frequent BP), remember that this is supposed to be a hobby. You’ll enjoy it more when you keep your love of LEGO alive. Scale back when you don’t have time. Sell if you need cash. Pop seals and build if there’s something you’ve now taken a fancy to, or if the market for the set has cratered. But please, please don’t get in over your head. To conclude my story: I have spent considerable time over the first half of 2016 on building inventory, writing software to manage my BL store’s sales and pricing analytics, and sorted through about half of my sets and parted them out. I listed ~20k parts on BL, and have seen some nice sales coming through. However, as this is my hobby, I’ve had to take a break from adding to my BL store and it has been in hibernation mode over the past months as other priorities took over. I have continued to list sets on Ebay and Amazon to keep some sales going. I bought well – some initial purchases were not as good as some later ones when I got clearer on what I needed to look for in sets, however, those were offset by some lucky finds (Ghosts for half price, anyone?). I resigned myself to contributing to reporting sales and delightful banter to BP, and with ~3.5k posts to my name in just a year, I think I’ve been quite successful at that strategy at least. To round it all up, some statistics from my first year: Total resale purchases including supplies, shipping costs and fees: $7.3k Average discount over MSRP: 44% Total sales revenue: $3.0k ROI on those sales: >175% (But I sold quite a lot of freebies which drive ROI up) Average fee paid (Ebay, Amazon, BrickLink/BrickOwl): 11.2% Parts amassed for my BL store: ~110k Here’s to a great second year!

I don't know about anyone else, but I like looking at bulk lots and playing a guessing game about what might be there. Sometimes I can figure it out and come out well, other times I am left scratching my head wondering what other people are seeing that I am not. I usually assume that it's a modular building and shrug it off as my lack of experience with them. However I don't have to shrug it off, I could educate myself. I begin my analysis by picking out a desirable set. In this case, I have chosen 10190 Market Street. Market Street was made in 2007 and retailed for $89.99. This set was significantly cheaper than any of the other modular sets when it was released. The lower retail cost is probably due to its smaller size. It is 1248 pieces, including 3 minifigures. Market Place was the only modular building set that was not released under the Creator imprint. It was instead released under the Factory imprint. LEGO Factory is the imprint used for a series of sets that were created in LEGO Digital Designer by fans and submitted to LEGO for approval and eventual release. The original LEGO.com description: Add Market Street to your LEGO town! Designed by a LEGO fan, this realistic LEGO Factory exclusive features interesting colors and details like spiral staircases, awnings, removable balconies and a terrace roof. The modular construction allows you to put it together in different ways and to enlarge your LEGO town or city as your collection grows! Combine with set 10182 Café Corner to expand your LEGO neighborhood! Designed to minifigure scale! Includes 3 townspeople! Build each floor separately and put them together to complete the building! Top three stories lift off to reveal inner rooms and staircases! Street base measures 10" x 10" (25.4 cm x 25.4 cm) and the building stands 13"" (33 cm) high! Realistic features include opening doors and windows, gate, street light, striped awning, fruit to sell at the market and more! The set comes with printed building instructions which are also available online at www.LEGOFactory.com/buildinginstructions. In the most recent update of the Brickpicker price guide we see that this set has risen in value to $1461 for a new copy and $631 for a used copy. For an unopened copy that's more than 16X the original cost of the set and even the used copy is more than 7X. I don't know if that used price includes instructions or a box. As we all know, the sets cannot be rebuilt out of just random parts that you find in your kid's LEGO bin. It takes a certain selection of parts, and that's what you or I would look for in a bulk lot to see if this set is present. If you were to buy this set broken down, you'd probably want to check out specific expensive pieces to make sure they were present. If you were thinking of building this set from scratch, what pieces would be the key pieces? I'm going to separate the parts into 3 groups. The first group is the most common pieces in this set. That doesn't necessarily mean that these pieces are common, just that they are the most numerous in this set. To that end, I will list the parts that occur 19 or more times in this set. The second group are the rare or expensive pieces. Any piece or minifigure that sells regularly for more than $1 and/or appears in less than 10 sets will make up this group. The third group, are the rest of the pieces, I'm not going to talk about them. There are lots of places including Bricklink and rebrickable.com that you can get a complete inventory, this article is focusing upon the highlights. If you decide to try to gather the pieces to build this set, you'd be looking at 1239 individual pieces (If the minifigures are treated as a single piece.) Those pieces can be broken down by unique color/part combinations, or elements. This set is made up of 184 elements. When I take an average used price of all elements, I get a total of $366.62. That's not actually that bad considering the cheapest used set I can find is $499. However, one should take into account that most sellers are only going to have a portion of the pieces that you need and each additional order is going to increase your expenditure. Also, as I mentioned, I used the average price, savvy shoppers could find many of the pieces cheaper, but you'd have to make a determination of whether it makes most fiscal sense to purchase a part for more if the seller has more parts that you need or for less from a seller that might not have anything else that you need.. I always have a hard time labeling this section, most numerous, most occurring, most common? I'm going with most common. Anyway, Let's take a look at the pieces in Market Street that you need 20 or more of. We have 13 different elements that occur 20 or more times. I will list them from most occurring to least. I apologize for the times when the image is not the exact part/color combination. Sometimes the image was not available in the right combination. The part will always be correct if not the correct color. The most commonly occurring piece in this set is 82 Medium Blue 1x4 Brick. Element 3010 averages $.11 and the cheapest seller at the quantity you need is also at the same rate. This piece appears in 54 sets. The next most occurring piece is Dark Blue 1x4 Brick, element 3010. You need 79 and they're going to cost you about $.27 each. Actually one seller has the quantity that you need for $.21. The price difference is probably due to this part being available in fewer sets at 46. Medium blue is a dominant color in this set. You need 65 1x2 bricks in that color. Appearing in 89 sets, element 3004 is going to set you back about $.05 each, or somewhere in the neighborhood of $3.25 for all of them. Averaging close to $.06 (which to me is weird because I have a ton more of these than the previous piece.) Element 2877 shows up in 164 sets. You need 44 light bluish grey 1x2 brick modified with grill. Dark blue 1x2 bricks cost a little more, averaging $.18. Element 3004 appears in 48 sets. this set require 38 of them. You need 37 medium blue 1x1 bricks. It appears in 66 sets. Element 3005 averages $.05. Tan 1x1 tiles appear in this set 29 times. Element 3070b appears in this color in 89 sets. It averages about $.08 each. You need 28 1x1 round plates in light bluish grey. It appears in 428 sets and element 4073 could cost you as little as $.01 each. Light bluish grey 1x1 tiles appear in this set 26 times. Element 3070b appears in this color in 161 sets. You're most likely going to spend about $.05 each Appearing in 153 sets and averaging $.10 is element 3069b. For this set, you need 26 tan 1x2 tiles. Anyone who loves tiles has to be really excited for this section. Our next part is Dark Bluish grey 2x2 tiles. you need 24 element 3068b. THis part averages $.15 and appears in 217 sets. It's deja vu all over again. Dark bluish grey 1x1 tiles appear in this set 22 times. Element 3070b appears in this color in 148 sets. You're most likely going to spend about $.07 each Our final part for this section appears 20 times in this set. The white Window 1 x 2 x 3 Pane appears in 64 sets. Someone has plenty of new element 3854 for $.05 each. Between these 13 different elements, (~7% of the set) we have 520 pieces (~41% of the set.) If you take the average value of these pieces you're at about $58.64. Thankfully, there are no stickers. No one really likes stickers it seems, and they tend to cost more than anyone really wants to spend in these expensive sets. I'm going to split the minifigures from the individual parts that make up the rare/expensive pieces. For the purposes of this article, the rare/expensive label will be any part that is a part of 10 or fewer sets and/or costs more than $1.50 on average. The parts in this section will be listed from most expensive to least. We have 11 parts that meat these criteria. Our first part averages $24. Element 73435c01 appears in 6 sets. You need 1 light bluish grey Door 1 x 4 x 5 Right with Trans-Clear Glass. We explored this piece in the Cafe Corner. You might be able to find this part in a partial Krusty Krab set for less than $20 though. You need 4 white Hose, Flexible 8.5L with Tabbed Ends (Ends same color as Tube.) The average for element 73590c02a is about $12. You may want to try looking for Alien Fossilizer 6854 which sometimes sells in the $7 range. This part is found in 4 sets. When I wrote about the Cafe Corner, I also talked about element 3308. Dark Blue Brick, Arch 1 x 8 x 2 appears in 5 sets, and you need 5 of them for this set. Each one of these is going to run about $6 each. I feel like I need to issue a warning about element 4095. Light bluish grey Bar 6.6L with Stop Ring (Patio Umbrella Stand) might be replaced by element 63965. A $6 part could be substituted by a shorter $.12 piece. Thankfully, you only need 1. This part appears in 21 sets including 10179 Millennium Falcon which is why such an undistinguished part is so pricy. The counterpart to our earlier door is light bluish grey Element 73436c01. The Door 1 x 4 x 5 Left with Trans-Clear Glass appears in 5 sets (including the aforementioned Krusty Krab.) It averages $6 each, probably cheaper because it is not in the Cafe Corner. You need 1. Dark bluish grey Baseplate 16 x 32 is part of 23 sets. Most of those sets are fairly large. You need 2 element 3857. It averages a bit more than $5 but several sellers have a large quantity for less than $4. You need 10 Window 1 x 4 x 3 Train with Shutter Holes and Solid Studs on Ends. It appears in 14 sets including 10173 Holiday Train. Each element 6556 averages $5. Element 2039, White Lamp Post, 2 x 2 x 7 with 6 Base Flutes is almost a staple of the Modular theme. It appears in 21 sets and runs about $3.60, you only need 1. I'm sort of confused why there's an Exo-Force hairpiece in this set. I guess, it would look interesting as a houseplant, or maybe Mr. Greenjeans wears it on the weekend. Anyway, you need 1 Bright Green Minifig, Hair Angular Swept Back. This part appears in 8 sets and is part of 3 minifigures named Takeshi. Element 53982 averages $3.50, despite the fact that Takeshi can be found for less. You only need 1 element x39c02. The black Door 1 x 4 x 6 with 3 Panes with Trans-Black Glass appears in 9 sets and you can get it for $2 or less used. (New, this thing is over $11.) So, I guess this set might double as a Harry Potter set? The black Owl Large, Rounded Features is found in 10 sets. Element 40232 is actually in mostly Harry Potter sets (8). On average it sells for about $1.50. So the minifigures are unique to this set. How unique are they? As we saw with the Green Grocer, all of the minifigures shared parts with other pre-existing figures. We'll look and see if the same holds true here. Before I get into the breakdown, let me share with you a bit of trivia that I read. This is the only modular set that uses faces that are not the basic smiley face. Each of these minifigures has an individual personality. Our first minifigure is twn045. Dark Blue Jacket, Light Blue Shirt, Dark Bluish Gray Legs, Square Glasses, Dark Tan Female Hair. I'm going to call him Roger. Now Bricklink says that his shirt is light blue, but I think it's white paint on top of dark blue plastic. I think it's supposed to be a white shirt. You're going to be able to get him in the $6 range. When I price out the parts though, I'm looking at about $2 in parts. I'm going to call the next one Wendy. I have no reason for it, but I hate referring to the figure as Medium Blue Jacket, Dark Blue Legs, Reddish Brown Ponytail Hair. Wendy is not a number, she is a human being, so don't call her twn044 either. Wendy's not a cheap date, She's going to cost you about $17 on average. What makes this figure so pricey? I made a mistake when I wrote about Cafe Corner when I said that twn040 had a unique torso print. It's definitely not unique since it is shared by 8 minifigures. That's actually a lot of minifigures to share a part with. However, those minifigures all seem to be part of somewhat expensive sets. You won't find the torso piece for less than $12. (Keep your eyes peeled for twn024 which seems to sell for less than $10 frequently if you want to grab the torso for cheaper.) The rest of Wendy's pieces are less than $1 total. I want to call this guy Mr. Greenjeans. I know, he's got on overalls instead of jeans, but I don't have something for green overalls. Wilbur? Anyway, ovr032, Overalls Green with Pocket, Green Legs, Light Bluish Gray Male Hair is the cheapest of the three. I thought Roger was boring, but Mr. GJ is super dull. He's in the $4 range. His parts are about $2.75 with the torso being responsible for $1.75 of that. If you feel like your set's not complete without instructions, you can find a set, but it's going to run you about $200. I was unable to find data for the box having been available anytime within the past 6 months. I can't make an accurate estimation of the value. If you would like to discuss this set, please join the conversation. All images are the property of Rebrickable.com, Bricklink.com, and the LEGO Group. If you liked this article, please check out the others in the series: 10123 Cloud City 7181 UCS TIE Interceptor 10212 UCS Imperial Shuttle 10182 Cafe Corner 10019 UCS Rebel Blockade Runner 10185 Green Grocer