Good morning!

 

As some may know, I am in the process of thinking about moving and have began boxing up my sets individually (know as the emazers method, thanks Ed). The thought is that although they will take up more space for storage, if I box them up properly now they will be able to handle the stress of moving. In addition, when it is time to sell I only have to post the listing one ebay (etc) and if/when the item sells I grab it off the shelf slap a postage label on it and drop it off.

 

 

All of my sets have been photographed, packaged carefully in new Staples boxes using kraft paper as packing material, weighed and labeled with set number-quantity and weight.

 

 

I am fortunate that I have a friend with way more house than he needs (plus no pets or kids) and he has agreed to let me store some of my inventory there so we can get the house ready to sell. My question is, does anyone see any problem with storing my sets as shown in the following pictures?

 

Please note that the boxes in these pictures are all 24 x 16 x 4, and have an edge crush rating of 65lbs. This mound is exactly 50 of this size box. I figured that it would be best to stand them on end like this for strength.

 

Please let me know your thoughts comments.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

That`s a great idea for sure! You don`t have to worry about scuff marks or damage to the set themselves if you have the extra layer. I`ve always liked this method, invest the time to package them properly now, and you don`t have to worry later on down the road. Really is a win when it comes to time, effort, and efficiency. Nice of your friend to give you the space as well.  

That`s a great idea for sure! You don`t have to worry about scuff marks or damage to the set themselves if you have the extra layer. I`ve always liked this method, invest the time to package them properly now, and you don`t have to worry later on down the later. Really is a win when it comes to time, effort, and efficiency. Nice of your friend to give you the space as well.  

Thanks for the reply. Yes, we work together so I have a feeling I will be picking up the lunch tab as long as they are at his house, since he is not charging me anything.

Wow.... I am jealous. I cant see any negatives there.... 

If anyone is interested, I use the flat shipping boxes from Staples (again, thanks emazers):

http://staples.packagingfinder.net/Shop/C60.aspx

 

The Kraft Paper I use can be found here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AI652CM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

For Tape, I use this product from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJOBUS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The tape is not the cheapest, but I find that you get what you pay for (as is with most things)

Great setup. My only concern would be making sure that you keep track of the pictures that go with each set. If one of your boxes had a scuff mark or dinged corner and you needed to make sure you used those particular pictures with the set that had already been boxed up when you sold it. Obviously you could not go back and verify you had the right pictures without opening the box of course. But if you have this all worked out and the space to store them like this long term then this seems like the perfect way to do it. Make sure to back up all your files and pictures so you don't loose them in a computer crash. 

Great setup. My only concern would be making sure that you keep track of the pictures that go with each set. If one of your boxes had a scuff mark or dinged corner and you needed to make sure you used those particular pictures with the set that had already been boxed up when you sold it. Obviously you could not go back and verify you had the right pictures without opening the box of course. But if you have this all worked out and the space to store them like this long term then this seems like the perfect way to do it. Make sure to back up all your files and pictures so you don't loose them in a computer crash. 

 

That is a valid concern, but I believe that I have allocated for it properly. This is why you will see a number after the set number (see 9474 - #1 above)  I make sure to package every set one set at at time 100%, before moving on the the next. What I do before boxing these sets us is to take pictures of all six sides of the box, with focused pics on any scuffs or damage. After the package is boxed up, I weigh the set and label it before I take a pic of the identification that I place on the box. Therefore, all of the pictures are in order (DSCxxxx number assigned by my camera): 

Front

top

left side

bottom

right side

rear

label

 

Rinse and repeat.. This is a very time-consuming process, but I am sure it will make my life much easier when it comes time to sell.

 

My picture files are stored in an OCD file structure as well.

Lego Sets

  -> Theme (LotR)

        -> Set # (9474)

Of course, I have these pictures backed up in at least 3 places.

4 places are better the 3

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Brickpicker mobile app

Does anyone else see a problem with my stacking method in the 1st post?

Does anyone else see a problem with my stacking method in the 1st post?

That is how I would do it, if I was organized and had that many sets.

Does anyone else see a problem with my stacking method in the 1st post?

 

I stack mine like that unpacked. Only way to do it imho. 

You'll get the greatest edge strength by placing the boxes in a direction that ensures the flutes (those squiggly columns between the two faces) are vertical.

 

Unfortunately, by all appearances you are not using the full edge strength of your boxes in those pictures. Flaps on top/bottom usually provides the greatest stacking strength but the height of your boxes will prevent you from stacking the LEGO boxes vertically as well which is the preferred way (look at how LEGO packs their boxes... sets never stack on themselves).

 

Tough call... stack your boxes properly or your sets properly. I'd go with sets.

 

(actually, long term I'd go with proper boxes that are taller rather than wider if you need to stack them that high)

You'll get the greatest edge strength by placing the boxes in a direction that ensures the flutes (those squiggly columns between the two faces) are vertical.

 

Unfortunately, by all appearances you are not using the full edge strength of your boxes in those pictures. Flaps on top/bottom usually provides the greatest stacking strength but the height of your boxes will prevent you from stacking the LEGO boxes vertically as well which is the preferred way (look at how LEGO packs their boxes... sets never stack on themselves).

 

Tough call... stack your boxes properly or your sets properly. I'd go with sets.

 

(actually, long term I'd go with proper boxes that are taller rather than wider if you need to stack them that high)

I'm not sure I follow (please note that I am referring to the last two pictures in my original post).

 

Lego generally ships them in boxes so that the long edge is horizontal, as opposed to vertical in my arrangement. When you have flat boxes like these (where the set lays into them) the top/bottom tend to bow if I put them horizontal and stack some more on top of them (like the middle row). You don't have this problem with lego boxes (product or shipping) because the sets are dropped in to them vertically from the top. To me, it seems that having the row in the middle distribute the weight across the sets helps.

 

I'm not sure if I am explaining myself correctly. Let me know what you think.

I'm not sure I follow (please note that I am referring to the last two pictures in my original post).

 

Lego generally ships them in boxes so that the long edge is horizontal, as opposed to vertical in my arrangement. When you have flat boxes like these (where the set lays into them) the top/bottom tend to bow if I put them horizontal and stack some more on top of them (like the middle row). You don't have this problem with lego boxes (product or shipping) because the sets are dropped in to them vertically from the top. To me, it seems that having the row in the middle distribute the weight across the sets helps.

 

I'm not sure if I am explaining myself correctly. Let me know what you think.

 

I'll try to clarify.... You are absolutely correct that LEGO drops their sets into the boxes vertically, but the flaps are always on the top and bottom. This way the flutes (those little wavy pieces in the middle) always stay vertical. You get the most edge crush strength when the flutes are vertical. The way you've stacked your packing boxes, all of the flutes are horizontal which means the LEGO boxes inside are carrying a fair bit of the load from the second and third rows.

 

Scroll down to the Stacking Strength section ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrugated_box_design

 

And yes I realize that LEGO uses the same flat boxes for shipping (unless you get the original LEGO shipping box) but at that point they are generally assuming the consumer and shipper aren't (edit, oops) stacking them on their sides. And if you consider post offices and delivery trucks, they usually have shelves so that boxes aren't stacked more than 2 high. (hah, at least they shouldn't)

 

Here are some pictures that hopefully help...

 

Flutes in the cardboard provide vertical strength..

 

Flutes run the same around all sides of a box..

 

Stacking on the side doesn't get strength from the flutes..

 

Stacking top/bottom does because the sides provide crush strength to the next row.

 

So the ultimate strength is in fact stacking boxes of the same size perfectly on top of each other, flaps to the top and bottom. Having said that, you can't stack forever. Crush strength of the bottom row is the only important one to consider. Criss-crossing rows is best when the cardboard has no flutes (like regular LEGO boxes).

I stack my boxes in a similar way. The post above makes sense, but the larger surface area on the top of the box means it will bow in if the box on top of it isn't exactly the same size or isn't lined up perfectly.

I stack my boxes in a similar way. The post above makes sense, but the larger surface area on the top of the box means it will bow in if the box on top of it isn't exactly the same size or isn't lined up perfectly.

 

You bet but you aren't benefiting at all from the crush strength of the box. If you need to stack boxes, stacking the same size boxes will give you the best performance. If you don't have the same size boxes, at least ensure the edges are aligned. Heck, putting a thin piece of plywood between each row of same sized boxes would be better to help distribute weight to the edges.

 

You'd be surprised how much it takes to crush a box when stacked properly.

Thank you all for sharing your methods and know how on packaging. 

 

One question, why kraft paper and not bubble wrap?

One word: Cheaper

 

LEGO generally doesn't benefit from the "shock" protection that bubble wrap provides by compressing slightly and not transferring the shock.  Shock protection is from things like impacts when dropped, glass shatters from shock impact, LEGO doesn't -- so wrap glass with bubble wrap, and use something cheaper for things that don't mind getting a shock impact now and then.

 

And if you think bubble wrap will protect a set box from being crushed, you are already assuming your outer box has been crushed.  If the outer box you packed your set in has gotten crushed, either 1) you used a cheap box, buy better ones  or  2) whatever crushed the outer box isn't going to be slowed down by mere bubble wrap.

 

Get good strong boxes, properly sized so that the set doesn't move around too much inside and add (crushed) kraft paper as needed to fill voids so the set isn't bouncing around inside getting it's corners dinged up.

 

Just my 2 cents

Thanks for your input mcortez

I have noticed that if you keep the shipping box size as close to the Lego box size then it doesn't get an opportunity to shift around inside too much. Therefore, the kraft paper only needs to protect it from rubbing against the outer box and keep it from sliding around in there as well.

I wrap my sets in a layer of bubble wrap, use a bigger box and fill voids wit thick brown paper scrunched up. Doesn't matter how big box is as long as voids are filled

i dont think you have enough their to truly worry about anything being crushed.

That is how I am storing mine in a closet prepackaged just not sealing the boxesi put brown paper down in the smaller boxes. for larger sets i keep them in the shipping box or wrapped in large Lego bag.

Thanks for the feedback all. Keep it coming.