Leaderboard

Jeff is currently working on a major update of the entire site(Daily Deals, Brick Classifieds, Brickfolio, blogs, homepage, etc...) that will enable many of the features to work together. The new Daily Deals will be slick...no pun intended.

One word: Cheaper LEGO generally doesn't benefit from the "shock" protection that bubble wrap provides by compressing slightly and not transferring the shock. Shock protection is from things like impacts when dropped, glass shatters from shock impact, LEGO doesn't -- so wrap glass with bubble wrap, and use something cheaper for things that don't mind getting a shock impact now and then. And if you think bubble wrap will protect a set box from being crushed, you are already assuming your outer box has been crushed. If the outer box you packed your set in has gotten crushed, either 1) you used a cheap box, buy better ones or 2) whatever crushed the outer box isn't going to be slowed down by mere bubble wrap. Get good strong boxes, properly sized so that the set doesn't move around too much inside and add (crushed) kraft paper as needed to fill voids so the set isn't bouncing around inside getting it's corners dinged up. Just my 2 cents

I'll try to clarify.... You are absolutely correct that LEGO drops their sets into the boxes vertically, but the flaps are always on the top and bottom. This way the flutes (those little wavy pieces in the middle) always stay vertical. You get the most edge crush strength when the flutes are vertical. The way you've stacked your packing boxes, all of the flutes are horizontal which means the LEGO boxes inside are carrying a fair bit of the load from the second and third rows. Scroll down to the Stacking Strength section ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrugated_box_design And yes I realize that LEGO uses the same flat boxes for shipping (unless you get the original LEGO shipping box) but at that point they are generally assuming the consumer and shipper aren't (edit, oops) stacking them on their sides. And if you consider post offices and delivery trucks, they usually have shelves so that boxes aren't stacked more than 2 high. (hah, at least they shouldn't) Here are some pictures that hopefully help... Flutes in the cardboard provide vertical strength.. Flutes run the same around all sides of a box.. Stacking on the side doesn't get strength from the flutes.. Stacking top/bottom does because the sides provide crush strength to the next row. So the ultimate strength is in fact stacking boxes of the same size perfectly on top of each other, flaps to the top and bottom. Having said that, you can't stack forever. Crush strength of the bottom row is the only important one to consider. Criss-crossing rows is best when the cardboard has no flutes (like regular LEGO boxes).

Took my old man on a shopko run today to utilize his senior discount on a few clearance sets. He enjoys it more than I do. Here is a pic of him loading my loot into the trunk. Sent from my iPhone using Brickpicker

Would you please put Meijer on a truck and bring it down here?

I envisioned this too, along with an instruction booklet that's 125 pages of adding 2x4s.

I'm not sure how much fun that would really be to build. I imagine the parts list might look something like this:

Hell, I want it ....but then again I want everything. Haha.

So close... another week my money is safe from TRU at least Not a City Investor myself, but the Car Garage/Space Center/Space Shuttle(if your local store still has stock) seem like good choices. Sale starts May 9th - 15th.

At this point, it looks like the SSD is retiring. Of course, as shown with other sets(Minecraft, Architecture Studio), LEGO can produce sets at any time. That being said, unless there is no box, any box, in almost any condition, might be acceptable to sell this set for a profit if this set is really retired. To send boxes back at this stage for some creases and small holes is foolish. Sure, try to get some money back for the damage, but don't return them. Sent from my iPhone using Brickpicker

Maybe you can change the topic to: SSD boxing issues...or something in those lines and let the shipping conversation continue and open a new one where which is indeed about 10221. 17 pages and its all about boxes and wallmart.... Sent from my iPad using Brickpicker

Just sold a sealed 4867 battle for hogwarts. $144.95 plus $12.95 shipping. One of the five I got for retail from Barnes & Noble when they listed some on their eBay store several months back. Look up the "Harry potter gold from barnes & noble" thread.

I'm pretty sure it's the Mixer.

Good morning! As some may know, I am in the process of thinking about moving and have began boxing up my sets individually (know as the emazers method, thanks Ed). The thought is that although they will take up more space for storage, if I box them up properly now they will be able to handle the stress of moving. In addition, when it is time to sell I only have to post the listing one ebay (etc) and if/when the item sells I grab it off the shelf slap a postage label on it and drop it off. All of my sets have been photographed, packaged carefully in new Staples boxes using kraft paper as packing material, weighed and labeled with set number-quantity and weight. I am fortunate that I have a friend with way more house than he needs (plus no pets or kids) and he has agreed to let me store some of my inventory there so we can get the house ready to sell. My question is, does anyone see any problem with storing my sets as shown in the following pictures? Please note that the boxes in these pictures are all 24 x 16 x 4, and have an edge crush rating of 65lbs. This mound is exactly 50 of this size box. I figured that it would be best to stand them on end like this for strength. Please let me know your thoughts comments. Thanks in advance!

This thread will be like my previous building ones (sets 10179, 10181 & 75059). Set 10226 first became available in Summer 2012. For more information about this popular plane, visit the Wikipedia page. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sopwith_Camel We will walk through the building process, take pics and discuss various topics like elements used / how. Unfortunately, I do not have the original mostly brown colored Sopwith Camel for comparison. Set 3451 from 2001 contained 557 elements while 10226 has 883. Box pictures below are from a Eurobricks.com review. The box is the exact size as the 10220 VW T1 van. I started the build and all anyone needs to know is this set's wingspan is nearly 20" ! My previous build threads. 7780: The Batboat: Hunt for Killer Croc : http://www.brickpick...-croc-batman-1/ 7782 The Batwing: The Joker's Aerial Assault : http://www.brickpick...arison-to-6863/ 7786: The Batcopter: The Chase for Scarecrow : http://www.brickpick...-for-scarecrow/ 10123: Star Wars Cloud City : http://www.brickpick...ars-cloud-city/ 10173: Holiday Train : http://www.brickpick...-holiday-train/ 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon : http://www.brickpick...lennium-falcon/ 10226 Sopwith Camel : http://www.brickpick...-sopwith-camel/ 10181 Eiffel Tower : http://www.brickpick...l-tower-advice/ 10194 Emerald Night train : http://www.brickpick...-emerald-night/ 10196 Grand Carousel : http://community.brickpicker.com/topic/13647-building-10196-grand-carousel/ 10225 UCS R2D2 : http://www.brickpick...0225-ucs-r2-d2/ 75059 UCS Sandcrawler : http://www.brickpick...59-sandcrawler/ 21021 Architecture Marina Bay Sands http://www.brickpick...rina-bay-sands/ 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 : http://www.brickpick...busters-ecto-1/ Sent from an iPhone using the Brickpicker app

I motorized mine too: Duct tape and bottle rockets.

I'm calling your bluff. I think that pun WAS intended!

You bet but you aren't benefiting at all from the crush strength of the box. If you need to stack boxes, stacking the same size boxes will give you the best performance. If you don't have the same size boxes, at least ensure the edges are aligned. Heck, putting a thin piece of plywood between each row of same sized boxes would be better to help distribute weight to the edges. You'd be surprised how much it takes to crush a box when stacked properly.

On 2013 Wholesale Order Form from last year the Mine was only Spring Only,So whatever is out there now is it.

<p> Production done: Passenger TrainLion CHI TempleSuperman

Scan and print it on sticker paper for 1 USD. Nearly the same quality.

Great score on those, and there is yet another set proving investing in City can be profitable.

My guess is it will be a Palpatine variation. Maybe he gets a medal this time.

That depends. Such a pyramid is usually not empty. Think of all the traps, moving parts, skeletons, minifigures trying to break in or escape, sarcophaguses, treasures. I agree, closed-up it wouldn't be much of an eye-catcher.

You'll get the greatest edge strength by placing the boxes in a direction that ensures the flutes (those squiggly columns between the two faces) are vertical. Unfortunately, by all appearances you are not using the full edge strength of your boxes in those pictures. Flaps on top/bottom usually provides the greatest stacking strength but the height of your boxes will prevent you from stacking the LEGO boxes vertically as well which is the preferred way (look at how LEGO packs their boxes... sets never stack on themselves). Tough call... stack your boxes properly or your sets properly. I'd go with sets. (actually, long term I'd go with proper boxes that are taller rather than wider if you need to stack them that high)

@fuzzy_bricks from an investment standpoint of course Tower Bridge is the right choice, but I want the mixer so badly lol. I can only buy one or the other next month per budget ;)

That is how I would do it, if I was organized and had that many sets.

And so it begins....

Totally their loss. I orignally tried watching TCW when it aired and I had a hard time with it (Skyguy). BUT, after I did some research and realized what they were doing with it, I dove in head-first. I am so glad I did. That series did amazing things not only for bridging AOTC and ROTS Anakin but the Star Wars Universe is also richer for it.

Wow great comparison. Makes the old version look chubby.

That's what I said when I saw the notification on my seller dashboard. I listed them high not expecting them to sell right now (because I really don't want to sell them...lol), but put them at a price I would be more than happy to accept. Funny thing is, I sold one last week at the same price but the buyer mistakingly thought it was a 4842, even though my descriptions and photos are clear as day. They just joined eBay and had zero feedback, so I happily refunded and thanked them anyway.

The reason why I don't believe it's the Mixer is simply because of the polybag they created just for the set. Usually a set consides with the release of a polybag that is similar to it, this, mini Sopwith and regular sized, VW Mini and normal sized, ect. I believe it's going to be the Ecto-1, it doesn't make sense for LEGO to release a set early when they're going to have a polybag for it on it's official release. But hey, who knows? It's just speculation and I could all be wrong.

Not sure if you sell on eBay or would part with the minifigs since you have a kid who will be playing with it but I have sold 4 of the figs for $110 so far the rest will go to auction Sunday night and should easily clear $200 making this beast only cost $100. I am only on bag 7 the technic frame, and may not get to work on it untill next weekend so not sure about your build question but shoot Jay a PM he is done http://community.brickpicker.com/topic/9779-building-the-75059-sandcrawler/?p=269146

I have this in my personal collection too. I gave my dad one. He built his and loves it. I'm keeping mine mint in the box, I just love to look at it and think of Snoopy!

These kind of mixed lots drive me crazy. If at least they were somewhat separated I could probably go ahead and buy it, but the last time I bought a very mixed lot I almost died sorting.

You can remove the ability for these misunderstandings/shenanigans (they could be either) by setting up Immediate Payment Required (IPR) on all of your fixed price listings. I set this up a few months before the Christmas season a few years ago, because at Christmas, like most sellers, I was getting a higher percentage of non-payers and losing out on the chance to sell my item to other Christmas shoppers, and it worked so well I have never looked back. For the present issues, tell the buyers you cannot issue invoices for GSP transactions and recommend that either they call eBay so that eBay can help them with their account issue, or you will be glad to file a mutual cancellation if they wish. Once you have them on record as asking for the cancellation, it won't count against your defect rating to grant it. The $60 shipping buyer probably didn't use the cart, but purchased each item separately - you would then be required to ship each item separately to KY. If he requests a cancellation, you can cancel, put everything in one listing, and let him buy the one listing -- that will give him one GSP shipping charge which will be far less than $60.

You have to make it your avatar now!

We talking credit card stuff? Wait a minute, are they retiring credit cards soon?

Consider how small businesses operate. They usually do it via loans. It's a matter of opportunity cost and risk factor. Yes, you can do it risk free, and spend only the disposable income. Or you can take interest-free loan, saving your disposable income as a self-guarantee. I.e. if i have $1000 stashed, and I have an option to borrow $1000 for 0% for a year, as long as i don't spend that stashed $1000, your risk is way lower than just straight-borrowing $1000 without backing

Go join the B&****** Kids Club. They'll send you a coupon for 30% off one kids item, and Lego toys qualify. Then order a bunch of B&****** gift cards on Cardpool at 10% off (20% if you're lucky). Take the coupon and the gift cards to that B&****** and buy the SSD for $260-ish depending on your state's sales tax. ??? Profit. You're welcome.

If anyone is interested, I use the flat shipping boxes from Staples (again, thanks emazers): http://staples.packagingfinder.net/Shop/C60.aspx The Kraft Paper I use can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AI652CM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For Tape, I use this product from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJOBUS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The tape is not the cheapest, but I find that you get what you pay for (as is with most things)

Ok then, check TMZ.

Just joined... Yes this is an ink stamp for a 140 set model (model #4).... http://peeron.com/scans/140-2/15 However this ink stamp appears to be for a single color print offset. I have a Dutch collector friend who collects old LEGO stamps such as these... but are even older... for 1950s spare parts packs inner boxes. Here's some examples of the box stamps images... https://www.flickr.com/photos/52095290@N03/page19/ Here are some of the stamps that created these... '' target='_blank'>> '' target='_blank'>> My Dutch collector friend is always looking for these, so you could contact him on his Flickr pages, if you wanted to sell the stamp.

It is an image of a LEGO model that could be built with Basic set #140 from the late 60's, maybe 1968 or 1969. Blue bricks for most of the body with white roof and accents, and red wheels. It was motorized.

Very cool, the ride is called "The Scrambler" in this neck of the woods.

Well of course it's in the last place you look. You wouldn't keep looking after you find it.

iirc, the rumour for that set came from a rather shady source but who nows, maybe lego does intend to make a rather small minas tirith set. Personally, I wouldnt want to see that happen. I want something huge. Something that would cost $500 and include a ton of minifigs to please all of the lotr fans

I usually apply them, but I've started scanning the sheets in first so I have a copy later for water slide decals. The water slide decals work better than the stickers on rough surfaces like roof tiles.